Durango SAS Conversion

The SAS (Straight Axle Swap) was done with a Dana 50 front axle from a 2000 Ford Excursion. The suspension front and rear was linked with coilovers. There are numerous ways to accomplish a SAS build and with different axles. You could do a full link setup like I did, or you could leaf spring the suspension. You could also coil spring the suspension. There are also other ways to do a SAS build.

I would recommend that you research SAS builds on a Durango, and see which way is best for you. I researched this build for almost two years, reading, taking notes, which included a long list of parts I would need, studying other builds, and reading even more. Money plays a big part in a SAS build. It is a custom build and fabrication skills and access to a shop is a plus. A SAS build with a linked suspension will be the most complicated and costly. Total cost on all parts, tires, and wheels for this build was $10,000. My buddy and I did the build at our shop, so there were no labor costs. I'll list all my parts and where I got them from in this write up. In my costs, I've included all my shop consumerables which includes grinding, cutting, wire, and tiger paw wheels, gloves, welding rods, and oxygen/acetylene gases to name a few.

I chosed to do a link build because we have done so many leaf spring builds over the years. I wanted this build to be a challenge and different. There are not that many Durango SAS builds out there and definitely even fewer SAS link builds. My Durango already had close to eleven inches of lift, that included a three inch body lift (still on it), five and a half inch suspension lift, rear shackles and cranked torsion bars. It sat on thirty-five inch tires wrapped around twenty inch rims. Linked suspensions are not measured in inches of hieght like lift kits are, so when I get asked how many inches of lift I have on the Durango now, I'll explain that it is linked. The Durango sat forty-eight inches to the bottom of the fender flares at the center of the fenders before. Now it sits at fifty-three inches.

While doing this build, I highly recommend that you take your time. Patience is a virtue to link builds. I would lay under the Durango and visualize my next steps before I even thought about tack welding a bracket in place. I would visualize what other brackets would go with that bracket, how they would work together, how the links would work with the brackets, how the links would work together and with other componets under the suspension. componets such as the exhaust, steering, transmission lines, drive shafts and so forth. And still I had to cut and redo some brackets. ALWAYS tack weld things first, such as a bracket to its location. Tack welds are easier to cut when you have to relocate or build a totally new one. Always visualize your next step and take your time. This is not a weekend project.

The reason I used a front axle from a Dana 50 from a 2000 Ford Excursion is simply because I got it from a friend. These axles were first used by Ford when the Super Duty's came out. The solid axle Dana 50 was used in the Ford F-250 and the F-350 from 1998 to 2002.

My rear axle is the result of an axle swap I did in 2011, it is from a 2003 Durango. When the five and a half inch lift kit was installed, part of it was putting the rear springs over the axle. While the 4.56 gears were being installed, it was discovered that it had spun racers. So I swapped in the 2003 axle, which gives me rear disk brakes. It is a 9.25 with a LSD. Gearing for both axles are 4.56.

Since the front axle is now Ford eight lug and the rear was Dodge six lug. I had six to eight lug adapters fabricated for it. I purchased them from AirBagIt.com. They also spaced the tires out two inches, to align them with the front tires in width. They cost $145.00 each.

I purchased the Link Kits from DavesCustomsUnlimited. Dave is a great guy and will work with you over the phone or emails from start to finish on a link build.

Plus for the rear link setup, I had to run a PanHard Bar due to not being able to build a triangulated 4-link setup. I did not want to fabricate a new fuel tank to mount behind the axle. So with the stock fuel tank being in the way, I had to go with a five link setup. The fifth link being the PanHard Bar. This link has to run opposite of the front PanHard Bar. The front link runs from the drivers side frame down to the axle to the passenger side. So the rear link runs from the passenger side frame down to the axle on the drivers side.

**IMPORTANT**
When the kits come in, you need to clean all the threads on the Rod Ends, Jam Nut and Tube Insert with a wire brush. My Rod Ends were not threaded together. Which meant that after they threaded the parts, they did not clean thethreads afterwards and then put them together. So I ended up galling a few of them and after speaking to Dave about this, he sent out replacements. So if yours are not put together like you see in the pics at their Website, then inspect the threads closely and deburr them. After that, Anti-Sieze is your best friend, Coat all threads real good, using your finger to coat the threads inside the Tube Inserts. Screw them together slowly, don't force them. If you do get to a stopping point, back off a little, then turn again, doing this until they are fully screwed together. They need to be screwed together, then inserted into your DOM tubing, then tack welded. Remember, tack weld everything first until you are positive you have your tubing lengths correct. Once ready to weld out, you want to TIG weld them for strength.

Also through Dave's, I purchased the CoilOvers and Springs. I had to first weigh the Durango, so they could use the numbers to fabricate the springs. Eight springs are needed, two for each shock. I drove the front tires onto the scale, then the whole Durango, then the rear tires. The weight over the front axle is 3,220 pounds, the weight over the rear axle is 2,600 pounds. The weight of total vehicle on the scales is 5,760 pounds, Then add all three to get 11,580 pounds. I used a large recycling center and they printed out a ticket for me.

Front top springs are 300 pounds each at twelve inches.
Front bottom springs are 350 pounds at fourteen inches.

Rear top springs are 250 pounds at twelve inches.
Rear bottom springs are 300 pounds at fourteen inches.

Radflo 2.0 Coil-Over 14" Travel Shock WITHOUT Remote Reservoir and 7/8" Shaft $315.00 each
Shock shown at the link shows the reservoir and price, but it is the same shock. I opted to not go with a reservoir since for street use and rock climbing use, I really didn't need one. The reservoirs are mainly used for racing, as the shock takes a lot of pounding and can heat up to due that.

The links all are DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) tubing. DOM is actually not a type of tubing, but a process that is applied to tubing after it is initially constructed. It is Drawn Over a Mandrel...which "cold works" it, giving it more exact dimensions relative to the inside and outside diameters, a smoother finish, and better alignment of the crystal lattice structure. Although it is almost always referred to as a SEAMLESS tube, technically it is NOT seamless tubing, and it started life as some sort of EW (electric welded) tubing. During the manufacturing process, the weld line becomes nearly undetectable, thus it is referred to as SEAMLESS. It is considered a high strength, high quality tube, and is normally constructed from SAE 1020 or 1026 steel. DOM is commonly used in the manufacturing of race cars and motorcycle frames. You will need different diameters to match up with all the Rod Ends.

You will have four bottom links total, two in the front and two in the rear. These will be your largest links in diameter. Then three top links, one in the front (three link setup) and two in the rear (four link setup). The two PanHard links, one front and one rear. I had a great friend who owns a large fabrication shop, give me all the tubing for free. He cut all links into forty inch pieces (nine pieces) and then I got all the left over pipe also. Why forty inches? Because no link with Rod Ends should be over forty inches on this build.

2 pieces will be 1 1/2" x .250 (1/4") wall for PanHard Bars
3 pieces will be 1 3/4" x .250 (1/4") wall for upper links
4 pieces will be 2" x .250 (1/4") wall for lower links

Here are the measurements of all my links cut to size with the Rod Ends welded in place. All measurements are eye to eye on the Rod Ends.
Front lower links - 35 1/2"
Front upper link - 26"
Front Panhard Bar - 35 1/2"
Rear lower links - 40"
Rear upper links - 33"
Rear Panhard Bar - 40"

The rest of the build will be explained with all the pictures I took. This build constantly changed on me. Remember, a link build is all custom and varies from one vehicle to another. Plus each build is owner preference, One thing that is constant is setting the vehicle up for the build. You need to determine what size tires you will run and at what height you want the vehicle to sit. Once those two things are established, then you will need to set the vehicle at that desired height. The goal is that once you install the coil overs, they will hold the vehicle at the height you set based on your Preload calculations, along with the height of your shock loops. A lot of factors come into play here. That is why I said, read read read, learn, and take notes. My shock hoops needed to be longer, though as with all builds, space is an issue. So when we set the Durango down on its own, it sat eight inches higher than I calculated. I adjusted my coilovers to lower it, but couldn't get it down enough to where I wanted it. I would now have to cut off all four shock hoops and fabricate taller ones. But after flexing it with the forklift, it's actually all good, with just the right amount of travel.

After you have already cut out all the old suspension and everything else you want to remove from under the Durango, it is now time to set your height. After you determine your ride hieght, you want to go ahead and set it at that height. You also need to factor in the size tires you will run, since different size tires will determine the height of your axles from the ground. Plus tire size will determine the height preference of the Durango. So once you determine the centerline height of your axles, you set them at that height. Then write down the centerline measurements of the axles, which both axles should be the same. Then set the Durango up on tall jack stands at the ride height you want. Then pic a measuring point, I used the centerpoint of each fender flare. So I set it up so at each fender flare (bottom side), to measure fifty-three inches. Then I wrote down that measurement with the axle measurements. I actually kept all my measurements wrote down in a notebook with everything else for this build. So now once you set your ride height, along with axle height, you leave it at that height and build the complete link suspension under it. At some point, an axle will get kicked over, or you will need to pull it out, just remember that each time you place it back, to set it up at the measurements you wrote down. PLUS the measurements that we will get to later on. These measurements will be used to keep the axles centered under the Durango at all times, front to rear and left to right. String, squares, plumb bobs and a hole punch will be used for these measurements. I was so meticulous about all these measurements, that the Durango drove straight as an arrow on its first test drive after the build.

Shock Installation
*Proper Shock Length
Most people don't know that shocks should be installed at a SPECIFIC length so they weld on some brackets, toss on some springs and go racing.
A coilover shock should be installed so that at ride height the shock is installed 2/3 collasped.
Example:
Follow along but USE YOUR OWN measurements. These numbers are ONLY for my Radflo 2.0 Coilovers with 14" of travel.
1) Extend the shock as far as it will go. Measure from the bottom mounting hole to the top mounting hole. Mine are 35" eye to eye.
2) Now collaspe the shock as far as it will go or up to the bump stop. Measure from the bottom mounting hole to the top mounting hole. Mine are 21" eye to eye.
3) Now subtract these measurements: 35" - 21" = 14".
This 14" is the total shock travel, which I knew already since I ordered a 14" travel shock.
Now comes the tricky part using the 2/3 Rule.
4) Take the 14" and multiply it by 2 like this: 14 x 2 = 28
5) Divide the 28 by 3 like this: 28 / 3 = 9"
Almost done:
6) Using the ORIGINAL 35" of the extended shock length, subtract the 9" like this: 35" - 9" = 26"
DONE! Sorta. This 26" is the LENGTH OF THE SHOCK as it is installed in the Durango at ride height. In other words, as the Durango is sitting on its own, the measurement from the top eye to the bottom eye is 26".
Hint: Once this distance is figured out, I cut a piece of wood, (1" x 2") and drilled two holes in it at 26" apart. You will see in the pics below, that I used this piece to mock up my shock mounts. This way, all four shock mounts are equal.
Now, from the paragraph up above, you have read that once we set the Durango down on it's own, it sat way to high for my liking. That I would have to build taller shock hoops, thus increasing my eye to eye measurements, which would go well beyond the calcuated 26". But the great thing about coilovers is you have to ability to adjust them to raise or lower the vehicle. So I was able to do just that and lower it eight inches, but giving up some of my down travel. Though after flexing it, I still have great travel up and down.
So my calculations, shock hoop lengths and the PreLoad I set the coilovers to were all correct. So I'm thinking that the 14" of travel is a bit much for my needs. We found this out after we set everything up by text book standards, only to have the Durango sitting well above the 37" tires. Now if I had chosen to run 40" or better, then everything would have been great. How it sits now, is the lowest I can go, due to the travel of the coilovers. Later on when I do plan on going to a bigger tire, I have the ability to do that and can raise the Durango 8" to 10" higher if I want.

The front axle is a Dana 50 from a 2000 Ford Excursion	Build date and gear ratio, the gears were changed out to 4.56 to match the rear axle
It was tore down, cleaned up and rebuilt	I also cleaned up all the casting marks with a Tiger Paw, basically any rough edges
This is the front heavy duty link kit	The rear heavy duty link kit
37" BFG KO2's with the wrong rims. These rims are Ultra 205 Tempest 17 x 9's. They have zero offset, which didn't give me the clearance I needed. After the build, I returned the rims for a full refund and got the right rims. I ordered 5 and we are now fabricating a rear tire carrier.	Next to the 35's I was running
Painted axle housing	I wanted this to be a clean build. So either parts were sandblasted and painted or replaced with new.
Tie Rod	Tie Rod
RadFlo 2.0 Coilover Shocks with 14" travel. They came charged with nitrogen	Coils that will go on the shocks
	Coils were lightly sandblasted to prep them for paint
Painted	Drag Link being broken down for sandblasting and paint
Both Tie Rod and Drag Link painted	DOM Tubing cut to 40" lengths, minus the last piece I needed for the rear PanHard Bar. Here are the measurements of all my links cut to size with the Rod Ends welded in place. All measurements are eye to eye on the Rod Ends. Front lower links - 35 1/2" Front upper link - 26" Front Panhard Bar - 35 1/2" Rear lower links - 40" Rear upper links - 33" Rear Panhard Bar - 40"
Time to cut out the old	I started unbolted everything, but the lift kit along with that damn IFS had a bazzillion nuts and bolts. So I torched it all off. lol!

Front axle and lift kit	Grinding off the old shock mounts

I had a broken motor mount, so i cut it off. I will not need the left part of the mount anymore. So I'll fabricate a new plate to weld to the motor mount.	This is where the factory weld was broken.
Mocking up new plate for motor mount. Tack it in place, remove mount and weld out.	New plate welded to motor mount.
Definitely stronger than the factory welds.	You want to weld in a filler plate to cover up the dimples, plus to strengthen the frame.
With new axle in place, I will have to remove exhaust crossover. The driveshaft hits it since the Dana 50 pumpkin sits further to the drivers side.
You can see the exhuast drops down right in front of the pumpkin, before crossing over to passenger side. The entire exhaust from the muffler forward needs to be refabricated due to the links and mounts.	First I made a template from cardboard, then cut out a piece of plate to match it. This plate will be used to cover the dimples where the old shock mounts were.
Welding it in place	Welded up for now, I will come back and fill in the weld as I snooth it out later.
To center the axle where you want it, place the tire up against the axle. You should have the axle off the ground at the measurements you wrote down earlier. Si the center of the axle matches the center of the rim, as if the rim is bolted on. The Durango should be at the ride hieght you wrote down earlier also. At this point, you can move the axle back, forward or keep it centered in the fender well. I kept it centered.	Once I set my axle, I used a plump bob to keep it centered. You should use a punch to mark where your string will always go. Punch on top of the frame, and don't weld over it or grind it away. The punch mark will always be your reference point to align the axle. Do this for all four wheels. This is for aligning the axles front to rear, not side to side.
	This Dana 50 had to be modified so I would have room to weld on my mounts.
I had to cut and remove this section. A Dana 60 is wider, so this section would not be cut.	I cut out the upper portion at first, but ended up cutting it all the way around.
Placing the first link. Nothing is tack welded at this point. The insert is just placed inside the tube.	This is to get the angle and length of your link. Remember, it should not be no longer than 40" from eye to eye. During this entire process, keep checking that your axle has not moved at all. I recently saw another build where the guy had welded his axle in place with pieces of scrap metal. This held it true while fitting and tack welding all mounts. Then when ready, remove the scrap metal.
Once the length of the links are established, you can tack weld brackets in place. My Rod Ends are not welded yet though. My front bottom links are 35 1/2" eye to eye.	Leave enough threads showing on the Rod Ends for adjustments later on.
	The transmission crossmember was also keeping the front driveshaft from bolting up to the pumpkin. I never liked that thing anyway as it was always a pain to remove or workaround. So I fabricated up a new one out of DOM tubing.
This will be my new center piece of the mount.	I cut out this hole on the drivers side and I welded up one of the plates above to bolt the mount to.
Once the mount was welded together, I could bolt it in place.	It's a lot cleaner and easier to work with now.
With both mounting plates, I had drilled them out. That way I was able to weld the DOM tubing to both sides of it, increasing the strength. The bracket above it is where the upper links bolts to. The transmission, upper link and lower link brackets are all actually one mount that fits over the frame.	You can see the lower link bracket here. Once everything was tack welded in place, the whole piece was removed for welding out. Then placed back on frame and welded out.
We bent it enough on this side so that the driveshaft would not hit during articulation.	The pitman arm does not line up with the drag link. The pic shows the pitman arms position with the steering at dead center. The drag link runs straight across with the tie rod, but ends up behind the pitman arm where it should attach. So I had to move the steering box forward 4" on the frame.
The pics are after we completed the fabrication on this part. I'll explain the process though. Using cardboard again, I made templates to cut out my plate. Three pieces were used. The outside frame here, the top, then inside.
I used the stock bolts to bolt down the steering box. So once all three plates were tacked together and in place on the frame, we positioned the steering box where we wanted it. Then marked the holes, pulled the bracket out, drilled it and welded it. We also drilled the plate on the outside so we could insert three pieces of pipe later. After the bracket was tacked back in place, we drilled out the frame. Then bolted the steering box in place. We then inserted the three pieces of pipe, cut them to sit just below flush of the plate and welded them out. Later when the welds were filled in, then hit with a Tiger Paw to smooth it all out, this gave it a clean look.
The arrows are pointing to spacers we welded on. This was done to keep the steering box flat with the plate. It actually sat in a big dimple on the frame in its stock position. All the hydraulic hoses will fit, though you might have to bend the metal lines here and there.
We had to fabricate a longer intermediate steering shaft now. So with mine being so old and worn, I ordered a new one. Then cut four inches from the old one, (the two sandblasted pieces shown).	Place the solid piece back inside the hollow body.
We then cut the new shaft at the end that bolts to the steering box.	Slipped the solid piece into the new shaft on both ends. The soid piece should fit into the knuckle about 1/2" or so.
We did bevel the ends before welding. This pic shows the gap needed to get good penatration into the solid piece.	After welding out, we cleaned up the weld on the shaft with a Tiger Paw and painted.
I ordered a Ford pitman arm and drilled out the end that goes onto the steering box. I cut off the end of my old one, ground it down to fit into the Ford pitman arm. Then beveled everything, pre-heated and TIG welded in. Two things, be mindful of the soapstone marks above. They mark notches in the teeth and the side that slips up onto the steering box. This part is beveled and only fits one way to bolt down. Both holes are beveled, so make sure you mock it up on the Durango first before welding out. After TIG welding, it was wrapped up tightly in a welding blanket to cool off very slowly.	Now I have a Ford/Dodge pitman arm. You can actually find companies online that fabricate these up.
	Brackets fabricated for lower front shock mounts.
Once bolted on, we tacked in a piece to keep them spaced apart. The next pic shows this piece.
The lower shock bracket sitting place.	Bent DOM tubing for the front shock hoops.
These pieces are the feet of the shock hoops. We drilled them big enough for the tubing to slip through them. We then placed them on the frame, place the hoops in them, set the angle on the hoops and tacked them to the feet. Then removed them, cut down any excess underneath them and welded out the top on bottom.	Sitting in place on the frame.
These are the top brackets for the shocks.	We tack welded the hoops to the frame. Then using my calculations for *Proper Shock Length, which is 26" eye to eye, I drilled out a stick. With the bottom brackets tacked in place, we bolted the stick to them and also the top brackets. Then place the top brackets on to the tubing and tack in place. Then cut the tacks to remove for welding out. Be sure to use the stick later when you go to weld the hoops and bottom brackets permantly in place.
The top brackets welded in place with a brace.	Prepping the steering knuckles for a high steer setup.
Drilled two holes, then welded some round stock in them.	This is where we welded the round stock in place.
The Tie Rod will bolt to these when done. They fit over the round stock.	These inserts were cut off the knuckles. Make sure you pay attention to the tapered holes, so the Tie Rod will fit properly in each one.
Tack welded in place.	Then welded out.
The inserts were TIG welded in top and bottom.
Then the slow process of preheating and TIG welding the arms in place.	Gussets were added for strength. As each one was finished, it was wrapped up in the welding blanket to slowly cool off.
With the high steer now in place, I can set my Pan Hard Bar. The Pan Hard Bar should run parallel to the Drag Link and be as close as to the same angle and length as possible. Also the more level the Drag Link and Pan Hard Bar are at ride height, the more stable the vehicle will feel. You can see where my Pan Hard runs parallel with my Drag Link, but it is way to short after talking to Dave at Daves Customs Unlimited. I needed it to run as far as possible to the end of the axle on the passenger side.
I fabricated a new mount and cut a longer Pan Hard Bar. It ended up being 35 1/2" eye to eye.	It runs parallel with the Drag Link and I even put a bend in it to match the Drag Link.

The measurement on the Pan Hard bracket, from the bottom of the frame to the bolt hole is 2 1/2".	Flexing everything to make sure nothing binds or hits anywhere, particularly the Pan Hard Bar.


Axle is all welded out and ready to go back in. This takes some time to do. You do not want to weld it all out at once or you will warp it. Weld a few inches or so on one side, move to the other side of the axle and weld some. Let it all cool off, then weld some more. Take your time or you will regret it if you warp it at all.	Removed the oil pan, sand blasted and painted it.
Removed the Mike Leach stainless headers for ceramic coating.	Before putting axle back in, cleaned up everything, ground down and cleaned up where all the old mounts were. Installed a Flex-A-Lite all aluminum radiator.
Axle back in, links welded up and installed, axle shafts and hubs going on.
Got the shock hoops tacked back in place.	Installed the coilovers
You can see where the two black retaining rings are at with preload set. There is a lot of threads between them and top of coilover, where the blue tape is. This is why the Durango sat up so high at ride height. We had to spin the retaining rings upwards until we got the desired ride height.	Sitting on its own.
	You can see where the retaining rings were adjusted to. As of today, I have them locked in at 1 1/2" from the top of the coilover. For the first few months of driving, you will be adjusting each coilover until you get the Durango sitting how you want it to, plus level and equal all around. I have mine sitting about a 1 1/2" higher up front.

Majority of the front is done. Almost time to turn it wround and do the rear.	Setting up my brake lines, I broke away from the traditional set up. I didn't want long flex lines hanging down from the frame to the calipers. Especially when articulating the front end. The white arrows point to where the front junction block used to sit. I cut it off to use it down on the axle.
We welded the brake hose brackets that came with the hoses to the lower shock mounts. Then usef the clips to secure the hose on both sides.	The white arrows point to the bracket on the passenger side.
This pic shows a better view of the bracket and retaining clip holding the hose.	Passenger side bracket
The white arrows point to where the front brake line come off the Distribution Block.	This white arrows point in the direction the front brake line runs. This line used to run to the junction block on the frame that I had cut off. It connected to the junction block, then two lines came off the junction block and ran to each front wheel. Now the line turns and runs up the frame towards the front of the Durango.
You can see how the line runs forward before turning down towards the inside of the frame.	The white arrows point to a block we welded to the frame, after drilling and tapping it to hold the brake line secure. Then it continued, turned inward to connect to a flex hose.

The flex hose then connects to a hard line, runs down the Pan Hard Bar, then connects to another flex hose that crosses over to the axle. The flex hoses are for when the suspension articulates.	First flex hose connection.
The first flex hose connection after it has been secured to the Pan Hard Bar. With the stainless hose clamp, all we have to do is loosen it up to adjust the Pan Hard Bar.	The second flex hose as it crosses over to the junction block at the axle. This is the junction block I cut off the frame. So from here, the brake lines run to each of the front calipers.
The second flex hose secured to the Pan Hard Bar.	A full shot of the brake setup running down the Pan Hard Bar.
We bent the brake line as it comes off the junction block to conform around the pumpkin.	Then connected it to the brake hose going to the caliper.
Another block securing the brake line in place.	A block securing the brake line at the pumpkin.
One of the many brake lines I went through for this setup. The Dodge side are Bubble Flare fittings and the Ford side are standard brake line flare fittings.	I ordered these retaining brackets online.
They come flat, so we had to put a small bend in them to conform to the Pan Hard Bar.	This brass fitting is made for Bubble Flare to Standard Flare fitings or vice versa. This where the Dodge brake line comes down from the Distribution Block up under the Master Cylinder. I got all my brake line parts at O'Rielly's Auto Parts.
Rainy days suck	Installed stainless Mile Marker Lockout Hubs Part #449S - $162.36

	Coilover set to ride height


Skyjacker 9000 steering stabilizers. We had to modify the brackets to get the fit I wanted.	Pulled it out to turn it around and start on the rear suspension.
	Picked up a front driveshaft front a 2003 Super Duty F-350. The pic shows that Ford Universal Joint. The part I cut off is the part that slips into the Ford driveshaft and is welded in place. We used the piece we cut off to make a flange to mate my Dodge Universal Joint to the Ford driveshaft.
Using a cutting disk, we cut the weld at the driveshaft first. Take your time as you only want to cut into the weld and not the coupling below it. Once the driveshaft was removed, we cut the Universal Joint at the white arows.	This is the piece we cut off. The white arrows point to the area that went into the Ford driveshaft and had the weld around it. You do not want to do anything to this area as it has to slip back into the Ford drive shaft after we cut it to length later on. The area where the blue arrows point is what we will turn down.
We turned it down to get a nice flat wall.	Then turned the inside down until the Durango's Universal Joint fit inside it. Once turned down, there will be a hole all the way through it. Then the Durango's Universal Joint will fit inside it and it will fit inside the Ford driveshaft.
The finished piece with the Durango's Universal Joint and the Ford driveshaft.	The piece fits over the Durango's Universal Joint
It also still fits back inside the Ford driveshaft.	The Ford splines are a lot beefier
After determining the length we needed, we cut the Ford driveshaft. The using the flange, both were tack welded to gether.
You have to weld both sides of the flange.	Everything welded out.
I a Currie Antirock partial set up from a guy with another SAS Durango. He was parting it out. The arms were already bent to conform to the Durango frame. I had to purchase the Mounting Tube, Bushings, and Sway Bar from Summit Racing. The Sway Bar is 48", part # CE-9902J $187.97. The Mounting Tube is 48", 1.750" x 0.095", part # CE-9906H, $41.97. Bushings part # CE-9901D, $12.97 each.	We welded the brackets to hold the tube on the bumper guard brackets. Then welded the tube into the brackets. The Sway Bar runs inside the tube with the bushings on each end. Then the arms are bolted to the tube.
	White arrows point to the bushing.

White arrows point to the brackets we fabricated and drilled out for the tube.
Time to start on the rear suspension.	Unbolting and cutting everything out.
After removal, we set the rear up to the ride hieght we wanted.	Fabricated the top mount to hold the bottom mount. Then tack welded it in place. The top bracket was later modified so the e-brake cable could pass through it.
Tack welded the axle mounts in place.	Just like the front, once we set the position on the axle, we marked the frame and used plumb bobs to keep it correct throughout the build.

Old spring mounts were cut off. The e-brake set up bolted to the one, so a new mount for it will be fabricated later on.	This shows why we couldn't do a triangulated set up due to the fuel tank.
Bottom links run straight with the frame.	The measurement between the bolt holes are 10 1/2".
Upper links were kept level with the ground at Durango ride height.	White arrows point to where we modified the lower link bracket so the e-cable could pass through.
After everything was tacked up on the axle, it was removed for welding out. Remember, this is a slow process as you do not want to warp the axle.

Pulled both axle shafts to replace bearings and dust seals. Plus to sandblast and paint all brake assemblies.


After sandblasting the hub, treated the metal to prep for paint.	Sandblasted all brake parts.
Painted	All new again
The e-brake set up for the rear disks.	Once axle shaft was installed, the first part of the adapters were bolted on.
They spaced the rear tires out 2", so they will match the front tires.	Hardened bolts to bolt the two piece adapter together.
Top piece of the adapter	From Dodge 6 x 4.5 to Ford 8 x 170. I periodically recheck everything with them. They are built solid and have presented no problems.
Self Etching primer	Then shot black
Our first attempt at the rear Pan Hard Bar. Remember, this bar HAS to run opposite of the front Pan Hard Bar. So this one runs from passenger side frame to drivers side of axle. The front one runs from drivers side frame to passenger side axle. We had to re-fabricate the mounts on both ends of the Pan Hard Bar. It was at way to much of an angle. This bar needs to be as level as possible with the Durango at ride height. So at the frame, we fabricated a new longer mount to mount the Rod End under the frame. Then at the axle, we fabricated anew mount that fit over the existing mount.	Finding a way to mount the Coilovers proved to be difficult. The Pan Hard Bar and Sway Bar kept me from installing the upper end inside the frame. Also, you want the lower end as close to the axle ends as possible. Where the lower end is sitting now, is as close the the axle end as I could get it. So we fabricated mounts to weld onto the link mounts. Remember, I chosed to do this project using my existing rear axle and not a Dana 60. The Dana 60 would have given me more room to mount the Coilovers easier.
This is when we found out that I didn't get the right rims. These rims have zero offset, which left me with very little space between the coils and tires. We chose to mount the upper ends slightly back, off center, hoping the tire would not eat into the coils when flexing.	You can see the two new Pan Hard mounts, plus that the bar is now closer to being level.
	Welding out the Coilover and Pan Hard Bar mounts.
	Sitting on its own.


We used the stock Sway Bar since it is set up for the axle already. We had to add the longer arms with the heim joints. The arms are adjustable.
This shows how close the rear tires and coilovers are. I went back to discount and showed them once the Durango was drivable. I did order the rims with an offset and the computer showed that. So they gave me a fulll refund on them and ordered the right rims.	Old rims
New rims	Now I have plenty of room between coilovers and tires.
	New rims are Moto Metal 962 17 x 10
	After flexing it with a forklift, nothing rubs, hits and the rear coilovers do not even come close to the tires.
With my Sway Bars front and rear adjusted properly, I haven't had to put limiting straps or bumps stops on it. Though those are coming soon. That way I can disconnect the sway bar for more articulation.